Think like a customer… when you see a photo you are in, what do you do? You look at yourself. You analyze what you look like. That is simply human nature. That is also what our clients do. So, what is the message here?
It is EXPRESSION. We can go to great lengths to plan composition, lighting and all manner of things but purchasing desire always comes down to expression and the emotion that evokes. Ultimately it is what the client is paying for.
The most successful photographers in our industry understand this. They do not just “take pictures or spray and pray”. They actually analyze their subjects and explore the views of their faces and what kind of expression is the most flattering. They also consider what kind of expression conveys the purpose of the portrait. Exploring expressions that are not default smiles opens an amazing opportunity of actually connecting with the subject and conveying their personality.
To support this approach, look back at the famous portraits done by Karsh. Photographers around the world look at those images with respect for the story conveyed, the posing and lighting. As you study his images, you do not see big default grins. Can you imagine the image of Churchill with a big toothy grin. It simply would not convey the “bulldog” of the English parliament during WW11.
Profile Left and Right: Commonly, profiles are the most dramatic in low key situations. Is a profile the most flattering view for most? It can be but one has to look closely at the shape of the face (nose, cheeks, forehead and flow of the hair) to see if it works. Not everyone has a flattering profile, but when photographing a profile image, it is always best to use short lighting.
Two-Thirds View: Now let’s look at a two thirds view (turning the head to the left or right and often called a three quarters view). This view, as seen on the following page, is used in every session as it tends to create an oval perception of the clients face.
Note the differences in the two images above. The image on the right has a foundation for the head to rest on. The image on the left conveys a bobble head on unbalanced shoulders. This kind of detail is important. A key concept to consider is the direction of light as it relates to the flow of the hair. Too often, when there is a clear sense of the “flow” of the hair, photographers bring the main light in from the opposing direction. You often see conflicting shadows being cast by the hair and a visual “conflict” with the direction of the main light and the hair. Now lets take this one step further. In the above image (right), the face has a beautiful oval look. HER right eye is still a little bigger but very flattering.
The following (right) is what we see in many images today… turning the head too far and losing the beautiful oval and the connection with the viewer. This distorts the beauty of the face and you end up photographing a “cheek” rather than the beauty of the person.
Eye Direction: Another consideration is eye direction (below). In the above situations, we see the eyes pointing in the same direction as the nose. In fashion photography you often see the eyes drifting away from the camera point of view. This is done on purpose as fashion photographers want you to pay attention to the clothes and hair (not fall in love with the model).
Gentle Expressions: Look closely at these two images (upper right). Both are good and potential sellers. The smile will be embraced by mom and grandma but look closely at the gentle smile in the right pose. It is timeless and you see the innocence of a child.
I am NOT suggesting to avoid smiles. I am encouraging exploring non toothy grins for your resource of image captures. A key to successfully selling this approach is to make the client aware of what you are doing and why. You do not want the objection of “he isn’t smiling” to overshadow the impact of gentler expressions. Always handle objections BEFORE the client brings them up.
It may seem daunting to explore facial views and expressions during a session but in reality it really is not difficult if you have taken the time in advance to manage your posing and lighting issues. Once that is done, you simply talk to the client and keep a careful eye on their expressions. Then the KEY… as the artist, make a decision of what look is the best and convey your enthusiasm to the client.